SCHMETZ Ajour Stitch Needle No. 120/19

The wing needle, also known as a hemstitch needle or sword needle, is used for decorative stitches, heirloom sewing, and white work on loosely woven fabrics such as linen. When sewing, holes are created in the seam, which act as a decorative element. Open hem seams can, therefore, be easily machine-stitched even without the need to previously remove the fabric threads, as is the case with hand-sewing. This traditional open hem effect is achieved by the "wings" on both sides of the needle blade, which gently push the fabric threads aside. The sewing thread assists in this effect by preventing the fabric threads from returning to their original position.

The wing needle is threaded like any other needle. Note that the automatic needle threader does not work with the wing needle. The large holes in the seam are more visible when the thread color matches the fabric. When using a contrasting color, the sewing thread becomes the focus, not the holes.

Always use the wing needle with a zigzag needle plate with an elongated hole. Use a satin stitch or zigzag presser foot. If available, use the button for an open hem or a twin needle. Otherwise, reduce the stitch width so that the needle does not hit the presser foot or the needle plate.

To prevent puckering in the seams of soft and lightweight fabrics, use spray starch or a non-permanent stabilizer (such as removable non-woven interfacing, water-soluble or heat-soluble embroidery stabilizer) to stabilize the fabric.

For the best results with clearly visible holes, use a utility or decorative stitch where the needle pierces the same hole multiple times. Often, these stitches are already marked as bold hemstitch points in the machine's instructions or can be found in the machine's special stitch menu. Experiment and see which stitches you prefer. Test on a scrap piece of fabric to determine the appropriate thread tension, as well as stitch length and width.